Sunday, 18 September 2011

Tower blocks: Bracknell's Point Royal

It rained on me most of the time I was in Bracknell.  It was sunny in Virginia Water on both the way there and the way back.  But raining in Bracknell.

Having thoroughly confused some locals by asking for directions to the only residential tower in the town (one of whom clearly thought I was a mentalist), I finally came across the 17-storey block in the conservation area of Easthampstead.  Not quite sure what qualifies the area as conserved - the 50s houses thereabouts have been routinely subjected to the usual improvements of coaching lamps and mock-Georgian windows.  But the tower itself is very good.


Apparently nicknamed the 'thruppeny bit'.  
Quaintly dated iconic branding.


The tower sits atop a large smooth concrete disk.  This is in turn surrounded by a sort of moat, which provides ventilation and light to the car park underneath the whole thing.  The frequency of the trees growing in the moat suggests that they were deliberately placed there, or at least deliberately not removed.  Not sure that it was a great idea, as it gives the place a rather unkempt air of abandonment.


The moat / blast pit.


The moat is spanned by a couple of concrete bridges.  The load-bearing central core is hidden in the shadows of painted concrete screens, implying the whole building is light enough to rest on just those slim supports.


Not sure if the listing is my photography or the tower itself...


The styling is unashamedly space age - the tower sits like a rocket resting on a launch pad.  It is so much more 'designed', more interesting than the later, lazier blocks built across the the country, which are now so widely hated.  As the external doors to the block are (wisely) locked, I didn't get to infiltrate, so I have no idea what it's like inside.  Perhaps it awash with needles and urine.  But, from the outside, in a burst of sunshine on a rainy day, it looked really rather decent.


Ancient and Modern Revised (an introduction)


This post started life as an introductory paragraph for a separate post on a visit to some 50s New Towns.  So, the themes of regeneration, Zeitgeist and back doors will be returned to.


During the non-stop TVathon of the 2010 General Election, Prime Minister-to-be David Cameron was trailed constantly by the media.  Poor chap must've hated all that exposure.  Of course, the solitary advantage such coverage provided Conservative HQ was the opportunity to deliver a range of liminal messages to the voting public, from tie colour, to haircut, to a warm healthiness of subtle perma-tan.

Whether chosen by Cameron himself, or thoughtfully selected by Conservative HQ, his London house is quite perfectly suited to a man asking to run the country.  Not so ostensibly new-money as some gated Banker Georgian, nor so whimsical as a 70s bungalow, Cameron emerged each morning, striding businesslike and reassuring, from a scrubbed-clean piece of Late Victorian suburbia in Notting Hill.  

Such Queen Anne properties have become the Heights of Aspiration (whether an original or a more recent pick-and-mix of Victorian confections).  Solid Empire brickwork, clean white paint, a large bay of sash windows. A proper space to raise a family.  Respectable, established, safe.


An advert for new-build Victoriana in Hemel Hempstead.  
Aspiration + sans serif + fear of rocketing house prices = Zeitgeist


And reassuringly expensive.  Strange to recognise that these Victorian houses, which are now so costly that they are just out of reach of the average Londoner (according to some slightly bitter guesswork on the Internet, Cameron's pad would set you back about £2.7 million, heading towards 100 times the mean London salary), were knocked up on the cheap by speculative builders - literally jerry built - for mere bank clerks.  Even stranger, such clerks would have employed a servant.  The houses' front parlours would stand resolutely unused, a rhetorical caesura for the demonstration of wealth and status.  Tradesman would come to the rear door to deal with the servant, not troubling the mighty clerk at his (certainly his) polychromatic glass front door.  

Modern Revised

Such social mores are preserved, locked in the brick of the domestic architecture of the time.  To an extent.  As the demands that society places on the buildings that provide us with shelter and workplaces change, we modify the past to address our new conception of our needs.  Those Victorian piles are now routinely hacked into apartments for high-density modern living (a money-making manoeuvre only made possible by the post-war relaxation of regulations to permit windowless bathrooms).  With a combi boiler, a plasterboard sheet and an extractor fan, the old front parlour can now be passed off as an entire flat (a studio!  How arty and bohemian!  And dreadful).

We'll all be familiar with personal microcosms of the shock of change.  When returning to places we used to know well, we notice the differences - the shops that have changed, the pubs that've gentrified or closed, the shiny silver confetti of Millennial street furniture.  But we also encounter an unsettling awareness of the huge swathes of the prosaic, the background - did it really use to look like that?  Had we ever noticed that before? 

Returning quite randomly to Basildon a few years ago, I was struck by how many things I'd forgotten I remember about the place.  Not all of which are even there.  There is still a spiral ramp leading up to the multi-storey car park.  Although I had recalled that the orgastic (© F Scott Fitzgerald, 1925) parent-trap Toys Я Us could be seen from the ramp, which it can't.


Scene of a simulacrum.


Basildon's pedestrianised shopping precinct was once accompanied by a blue-glass box housing an Army & Navy store.  Access to this Palace of Suburban Desires (Estée Lauder, Pyrex, Tefal) was via an improbably external escalator, covered by a canopy of the same mirrored blue postmodernism.  The store has since gone.  At the time of my visit, a rusting relic of the child-thrilling show-off escalator was still waiting to be removed.


Fenced off.  
Let's not ask how I got up there to take this photo.


This photo could act as a case study of redeveloping a New Town.  A wing of the original and slightly Lilliputian 50s parade runs along the top right.  An unsympathetic, out-of-scale and now unloved standalone 80s addition sits adjacent.  A coffee-chain Millennial portacabin seeks to fill in the original open-plan vision, recognising the English fear of communal spaces, and the opportunity to generate a few more pounds from the space available (cf the shanty town of eateries on the plaza in front of Euston).

An unlikely on-stilts tower block, stands slap-bang in the centre of the town.  Presumably it was once a  set-piece of engineering, before such buildings became shameful.  The tower forms the backdrop to an open-air theatre space, with steps doubling as raked seating.  Of course, this space is completely empty, an underused pastiche of the squares and piazzas that our European cousins have the weather to enjoy.


Physically-improbable architectural performance.


As I've noted before, all of this was Quite Normal to me as a child, unaware of quite how different this all was to the colossal weight of Victorian housing and shopping across the whole country.  Likewise, necessarily without historical context, I'd never realised that Milton Keynes' fine Point was the UK's first multiplex cinema.  I saw Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles there without realising that I was enjoying a piece of British history.  Such history lives, whether observed or not.  At least, it does until society, with the best of least-resistance intentions, erases it.

The Ambercrombie Plan New Towns appeal to me because of their scale - whole towns built to house the post-war family of the future: nuclear age places for nuclear families.  These consciously modern places are now routinely subject to redevelopment, so often in terms of whopping ring-road complexes, with housing in reassuring mock Georgian or mock Victorian style.  But the ideas behind those towns, their car-free shopping parades, their conspicuous leisure facilities, their New And Better housing is still there.  To an extent.

I took some photos to ensure I remember.


Tuesday, 13 September 2011

Very Good Things about London: #3 Fireworks and the Thames

Not very controversial this one.

Cold air, bright lights, the glittering reflections on the water.  Win.


The OXO Tower and the Eye,
September 2011.


Battersea Power Station,
November 2010.


Tate Modern,
November 2010.



Friday, 9 September 2011

Foreign: (a bit of) Warsaw Metro

I had a few minutes for a brief exploration of the post-Communist Warsaw Metro system.  Well, system is a bit keen as there's only one line.  And, from what I saw of a quick spin, it's all a bit sensible and functional, in a Heathrow-extension-of-the-Piccadilly-Line type way.


All the thrills of a double-decker Hounslow West.


The old rolling stock will give caravan-fanciers something to enjoy.  
Good thing that veneer is waterproof.


The Metro entrances I saw were uninspiring Thatcherite blue-frame canopies.  Presumably the Polish civic planners were keen to make up for having missed out on the delights of the 80s.


Yawn.  DLR-chic.


However, Plac Wilsona seems to be a pointlessly lovely (although probably accidental) homage to Star Trek: The Next Generation.  Bored-looking commuters ride a short escalator into an elliptical abduction fantasy of soft pink and blue uplighting.


[Insert Star Trek cliché here]


Thank god it's not modelled on DS9 </geek>


Plac Wilsona reminds me of the utterly random Star Trek-themed Page's Bar pub in Westminster, which had a model Starship Enterprise hanging in pride of place over the pool table, and the occasional fan in full Worf-from-season-3 gear.  Whilst surely too niche an interest to be a viable business proposition, Page's Bar was more interesting that the pub that replaced it, the expensive-and-humdrum Westminster.


Thursday, 18 August 2011

Milton Keynes

Nostalgesia

Having grown up near the New Town of Basildon, I was totally unpeturbed to be introduced as an 8-year-old to the gleaming parallels of Milton Keynes' indoor shopping centre, surrounded by acres of car parking.  This is quite clearly The Future.  And this is all Quite Normal.  Why on earth would anyone want to shop on a High Street?

Random Milton Keynes memories leap up at me.  Paying £1.50 to use my first ever ATM, simply for the adult thrill of withdrawing money without a paying-in book (remember those...?).  The joy of the Christmas lights display (probably in October).  Being mocked in a guitar shop (thankfully now closed) because I didn't know everything in the world there is to know about guitars ("Dave!  Dave!  This one here doesn't even know if he wants humbuckers or single-coils!").  A Sixth Form leavers' dinner at a Mexican diner with some girls from the High School (girls who gave the grossly misleading impression that all women are aloof, confusing, exclusive and self-absorbed.  And mental).  The X5 coach, which took three-and-a-half-hours to crawl from Oxford to Cambridge via a selection of ringroad Tescos, circling Milton Keynes for the best part of an hour as it tried to find the train station, the shopping centre and the coach park.  And had no toilet.

It's not the place's fault.

The early Milton Keynes had a few 'iconic' features.  The concrete cows, for example.  Those ruminating on an approach road are apparently clones, with the real ones now standing in the very middle of the newest extension of the shopping centre ('Midsummer Place' - bless).  It seems strange to attempt to sum up the glass-and-underpass New Town with the unhappy mix of bucolic pasture and flatly industrial building material.  Mixed emotions.  Great to see them up close.  But they are actually crap and lumpy.



Hey, who're you calling crap civic art?


The 1979 spaceship futurism of the Point is still there.  The entrance to the cinema used to be through the improbable mirrored-glass stacked-box ziggurat.  However, the route through is now boarded up, and the ziggurat is occupied by Gala Bingo, Connexions (that achingly urban spelling that just reminds me of Nottingham ruralite DH Lawrence - he uses it six times in the first chapter of Lady Chatterley's Lover alone) and a YMCA charity shop.  We're all used to seeing bits of Victorian high street occupied by charity shops, but it is quite a shock to see these vintage-and-tat places in starkly modern buildings.


The red neon strips that described the pyramid shape
at night have sadly been removed.




I've spotted a few echoes of the Point around the town.  I wonder what the building's future is.






Like the Point, Milton Keynes' Bus Station, a strange travertine fantasy, is occupied by a 'vintage' shop, again incongruous in the brushed aluminium and marble futurism.  The building seems otherwise disused.


Precycle, recycle, decycle.


A scary waiting room / re-education centre


Day tripping

Arriving at the train station is somewhat unnerving.  You're clearly not supposed to.  A three-sided mirrored-glass court creates a vast, empty plaza reflecting nothingness.  The (unsignposted) shops are a brisk 15 minute walk away.  The John Lewis end is probably nearer 30. 


Oh hai.


It would appear that Milton Keynes, inside and out, has been almost entirely styled using the palette of the British seaside in winter - the Albion neutrals of verdigris sea, soft cool sand, slate-silver sky, and the saturated greens of marine vegetation.  And the glass.  The buildings efface themselves into reflections of the sky, of each other.  They wonderfully prefigure the Shard, the epic Ode to Invisibility currently being built near London Bridge.


Blanc.


Those triple-height ceilings like to collect children's 
lost helium balloons.  I can share their pain.


Modern Milton Keynes has been slightly painfully Branded.  Embarrassed by the Tellytubby utopia of tree-lined roads, lakes, fields and graffiti-free underpasses, the place has aped some urban text-speak.  The thecentre:mk (all one word and all lower case!  Yay!) is the theshopping centre (whereas MK Central, of course, is the thetrain station.  Lucky there are no tourists to confuse).  The indoor-skydiving airkix (ooh urban!  And all lower case!) and SNO!zone (caps-and-lower-case punctuation sandwich) and can be found inside the huge tapering semicylinder of the indoor ski slope, Xscape.  Surely the 's' there is redundant. Ecks-scape?

Milton Keynes has the air of the airport about it - the clean, untroubling modern lines, the endless car parks, the mysterious scale of all that must happen out of immediate sight, the frankly collosal number of mummy-class chain restaurants that live symbiotically in such places.  The thrill of the familiar Café Rouge, Ask!, Est Est Est, La Tasca, Pizza Express, Giraffe, Jamie's Italian...  This is precisely what the Brit on holiday wants - what s/he already knows, with a different backdrop.  The unfamiliar horror of the alien tempered and soothed by the oral delight of same again.  More Jamie's breast milk for me.

And Thamesmead

Milton Keynes and Thamesmead were both New Towns nobly seeking to correct the past.  Actually, in comparison with Milton Keynes, it's hard to think of Thamesmead as a town - it has no real shops, no centre, no function other than housing.  Milton Keynes, maligned and as sexy as Norwich it might be, is far more purposive and successful.  Perhaps it's also a fluke of architectural choice.  Thamesmead's concrete brutalism is now widely reviled, whereas Milton Keynes' high-tech modernism happens to remain contemporary - it could happily sit alongside the London Eye, the Gherkin, City Hall, Heathrow Terminal 5, almost any of Canary Wharf, the unfinished addition to Kings Cross, the unfinished Shard, the unfinished Pinnacle...

But it's not just luck.  Milton Keynes is simply Well Done.  And, just as crucially, Well Maintained.  Whereas Thamesmead reeks of abandonment and discontent, Milton Keynes remains fresh, appealing and relevant.  Even if the car parking is no longer free.


John Lewis en Plage



Monday, 15 August 2011

Cycle Path Fails: #1



There's a phone box in it.


Sunday, 14 August 2011

Very Bad Things about London: #1 Euston (part one)

London, 1968.

Right, chaps. Thanks for coming.  Do sit down.  Take some tea.  And a biscuit.  Please.

So - we're building a new mainline station for London. Euston - we have a problem!   No seriously, let's stay focused.  And Apollo 13 doesn't launch till 1970.  

So - this station.  It'll serve the entire North West of the country, and up to Scotland too. There're two Underground lines here - well, three if you count to split branches of the Northern Line. So - how many escalators shall we put in?  Hmm.  It is a major London terminus.  A flagship late-60s development and modernisation programme.  Five?  Ha, no Perkins, I think not.  Hmm.  I reckon... one each way. Yeah.  There is no possible way that one escalator could not be enough. I mean, seriously - it would be ludicrous to put more in. Or even leave space for more. No, there could never be a freak set of circumstances in which one escalator would not be grossly generous.  Particularly at rush hour.  Yup, no problems here at all.


See!  Told you.  Huge amounts of capacity.  It's almost embarrassing.
A Sunday afternoon is clearly indicative of the busiest it'll ever get.  


Another thing - we need to help passengers understand the Tube setup here.  This new station should make best use of the brand new Victoria Line, which has only just started running.  It's really important that things are as simple and streamlined as possible.  I think I'll get that Escher guy in again - he did such a good job with the Thamesmead flying walkways.  I have a feeling that this brilliant decision will secure me an MBE...  Just mark my words.


Cyrstal.  Clear. 


Think we're pretty much there, chaps.  All we need now is to destroy the iconic arch out front, jam in a charmless and windswept plaza, and we're done.  

A good day's work, I think.  Pass the biscuits.